I started surfing again and it's awesome! When I ran the lifeguard division with the fire department, I was in the water all the time. Its what I did for vacations. It was I did for fitness. Its what I did for fun. It was what cleared my head. But once I started the gym, I just didn't have time. I was never one of those guys that had to go and search for surf so my normal was just going to my local brek and getting n the water. So I'm not really sure where I lost all the time but it felt WAY out of my routine. I started pulling my boards back down and getting back in the water. Nothing big. Just like 45 minutes like once a week. It has been amazing. I think the fact that I got in and was able to feel like I didn't KOOK-OUT made me feel even better. I still felt like I had my general feel of the waves and when to go and how to ride. Its been great! But the other day I went out, I just couldn't seem to get going. Wave selections were bad. I fell off my board and lost it into shore for the first time in forever. My stance on the board was all weird. I started getting pissed! I was then going for any dumb wave trying to make it better and I just got more fired up. A set came in and they were all going to break on me so I paddled out past all of them. The water outside was super calm and quite. I could feel the cold of the water on my body. I could feel my shoulders from paddling. I sat up and took a big breath. I calmed down. THIS was why I was back in the water. Catching waves is great but just being out here is what the whole thing is about. It's about enjoyment. It makes no sense to get pissed at the stuff you are supposed to enjoy. Workouts are the same way. Who cares if someone takes your bar or you can't get the DUs that day or you can't lift as much. You go in not to win races but to enjoy making yourself better. It's counterproductive to be pissed when you are trying to be better. So if you feel yourself getting fired up, "paddle to the outside", or just stop and take a breath and see where you are. Realize you are in a place to make you better, mental and/or physically, and be stoked that you are there. When you are enjoying the whole thing, the ups and downs, and you don't put any expectations other than to enjoy it and get better, then all kinds of good things will happen! And they will happen:)
FEEL THE BURN!!!
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