The sun was finally out. It was finally warm. I rushed home after the gym to be able to make it to the beach. Its been a VERY long time since I said I was "going to the beach" and it was to surf. But I saw that the wind was offshore and the water was smooth. I grabbed my longboard and a shorty farmers wetsuit and headed to the beach. The beach was crowded but the smells of sunscreen and my old wetsuit immediately brought back memories of past trips to the beach. It used to be so important for me to go. I used to work there, recreate there, relax there. It was my yoga, my meditation. But since being so busy with the gym and the whole CrossFit thing as well as really trying to grow the gym and get to where I want to (and I still have a LONG way to go) I just haven't gone. I'll say the boards have left my wall maybe one time every 6 months for the past two years and maybe a 2-3 year hiatus before that. I don't surf to get a thrill. I surf to enjoy the moment. To see the sun. To be bathed in the "golden hour". To feel the water on my skin. To dance along the face of the wave. To be able to think of everything and nothing all at the same time. It's been very rare that I get out of the water and feel worse. I keep telling my self I need to do this more but then I'll feel guilty if I do it and I know I have things I need to do. I have been told by many that I need to do this more because it will make me a better me. I believe that. When I get out I feel like a better me. But I need to be able to let everything go for a moment so that I can get these benefits. Its not easy. I work hard so that I'll be able to get these times. But if I take them I feel like I'm not being smart because I should be/could be doing something else to be getting closer. But I need to realize that there isn't a finish line to what I want to be able to do. Because there isn't one, I need to be able to take these little pit-stops to help me a better me. If I am calmer, happier, more relaxed, then I'll be able to deal with the rest. Plus I won't feel like I NEVER get to do something for me. It's hard but I need to try to get better at it. Are you good at it? :)
FEEL THE BURN!!
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